Fidelity Champion Super9 upgrade

[Larry]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/330827756588 ... 1439.l2649

Arrived this afternoon. Note the seller sold it "as is, untested", but
considering the cosmetic condition, the seller's perfect feedback, and
the proprietary power adaptor fitting, I went ahead and successfully
bid on it. It works fine, except for the control buttons that needed some
force to register. I know how to fix this problem easily enough, it's just
oxidation on the contacts. After about 20 minutes, it now works
flawlessly. This one has the unusual blonde wood, and I like blondes.
When you live on the other end of the ocean, as I do, the shipping
cost can easily outweigh the cost of the item. Still, about $130 including
shipping delivered to the door is not bad.
Now I'm just looking for a Fidelity Elite... anyone out there got one
for me?
regards,
Larry

[Eric Wainwright]

It looks like you got a great price!

I still have this same model from 1984. For the combination of form, function, and price, I think it might have been the best chess computer ever produced.

I've also have the same problem with the control buttons. They need a lot of force after all these years. How did you fix the problem?

-Eric

[Larry]

It looks like you got a great price!

I still have this same model from 1984. For the combination of form, function, and price, I think it might have been the best chess computer ever produced.

I've also have the same problem with the control buttons. They need a lot of force after all these years. How did you fix the problem?

-Eric

Hi Eric, It's easy enough, just take the following steps.
Under the game are four rubber 'legs' that the game sits on. They are
just stuck on with a fairly weak glue. Use a pair of pliers to grip and twist
them and you will find they come off, revealing a hole under each of them.
Look inside the holes. You will see a nylon latch, held in place by the
wooden frame. Simply push the nylon across in each hole and you will
find the complete game pushes out of the wooden frame.
You should be working on a blanket or a towel, not just a hard surface.
Now you have the back of the control panel exposed. Looking behind it
you will see the back of the problem control panel buttons and the back
of the display are both held firm by round metal securing rings. Not sure
what the correct name for them is. They can be worked loose and removed
with a pair of long nose pliers. A little bit fiddly here, try to get them off
without destroying them, they need to go back on.
Once these securing rings are removed, you will also have to remove
(I think) four plastic securing lugs on the back of the mainboard. A
simple job. Then you will notice the mainboard, complete with the display
unit and the back of the control button panel, come free. This will take a bit of wriggling. Using your
long nose pliers again, reach in and pull out the rubber insert which
includes the control buttons.
Now you will be able to look in and see the metallic contacts. They are
giving the problem because they have reacted with the oxygen in the
air, forming an insulating film of oxide. A bit of fine sand paper will fix this.
Reach in with the sand paper and give a light rub on the metallic
contacts. Make sure you don't miss any or you will have the frustration
of having to pull the whole thing apart again later. Don't rub it so hard
that you remove the conducting surface, you only want the oxide off.
Also, on the back side of the rubber insert you have pulled out, notice
the contacts behind the buttons. Give them a rub too.
Now put it all back together doing everything in reverse. All going well
you will enjoy the experience of playing the machine just like you did
when it was new. I found the rubber legs did'nt even need another
dab of glue, the original glue still did the job. If you do give them more
glue, make it weak glue in case you need to do another repair job.
If you run into problems just let me know. We are all here to help each
other.
hope this helps,
take care...
Larry

[Brutus]

Hello, these steps are fine, but the one for the sandpaper. Use an electrical contact spray instead which easily cleanes the contacts.
- Wolfgang

[Larry]

Hello, these steps are fine, but the one for the sandpaper. Use an electrical contact spray instead which easily cleanes the contacts.
- Wolfgang

Well, ok, I take your point, but that would have meant, for me, a trip
down the street to buy the stuff. The sandpaper is in my garden shed,
and has a smaller carbon footprint. We are trying to save the planet
you know.
Larry

[Eric Wainwright]

Hi Larry,

Your instructions worked perfectly! My Fidelity Chess Champion is now working like brand new. I used both the sand paper and WD-40 on the contacts for extra good measure.

Many thanks,
Eric