Issue with Novag Super Forte B

[weismangroup]

Good Day All!

I recently pulled my Novag Super Forte B out of the closet after not having played with it for several years. After switching on with the AC adapter, the computer quickly flashes the H1 square, then blinks off, the LCD then shows the regular startup check digits, then shows as if it is ready for a game, but then the H1 square lights and nothing else functions at all and is totally unresponsive to any buttons. At first I thought is was a stuck square, and tried the hair dryer fix, but to no avail. Also, it seems that the squares are OK, because if I hold any square on rank 1, and then press any other square from 2-8 on the same row, it will cause a 2 LED's to light, though not always the one you would expect. This is also true for the always lit H1 square, so it seems that the H1 square is registering pressure.

Anyone have any ideas on what could be the issue?

Thanks,

Michael

[Larry]

Good Day All!

I recently pulled my Novag Super Forte B out of the closet after not having played with it for several years. After switching on with the AC adapter, the computer quickly flashes the H1 square, then blinks off, the LCD then shows the regular startup check digits, then shows as if it is ready for a game, but then the H1 square lights and nothing else functions at all and is totally unresponsive to any buttons. At first I thought is was a stuck square, and tried the hair dryer fix, but to no avail. Also, it seems that the squares are OK, because if I hold any square on rank 1, and then press any other square from 2-8 on the same row, it will cause a 2 LED's to light, though not always the one you would expect. This is also true for the always lit H1 square, so it seems that the H1 square is registering pressure.

Anyone have any ideas on what could be the issue?

Thanks,

Michael

Hi Michael, The computer was working fine some years back when you
last used it, and has not been used by anyone else either. This rules out
a wrong adaptor having been used on it. Probably about the only thing
I can suggest is oxidation on the ribbon contacts that join the mainboard
with the playing surface. You have to take the back off and look for the
flexible plastic ribbons I'm referring to. You will see them at the edges
of the mainboard. Probably about four of them. They are just a push fit,
and can be prised loose with long nosed pliers. Then you just rub them
lightly to take the coating of oxide away. Don't rub them hard or the
conductive surface can come away too.
This has worked for me to fix the symptoms you described. Hope it
works for you. Your post seems to indicate the playing surface is fine,
same for the mainboard. It is not initializing at startup for some reason,
and I'm hoping it is a simple circuit break.
all the best...
Larry

[weismangroup]

Thanks Larry.

So I tried as you suggested. There were three ribbon cables that were basically taped to the board, then held down with a small metal bar screwed to the main board. I removed them, wiped them down, and a bit oxidation came off, they looked OK and I put them back in place with new tape and re-attached the hold down bars. Powered up but the problem still persists.

Is it possible it is the other side of the cables where they come off the playing surface? If so, that looks a lot trickier to deal with as access seems only to be from under the glued-on surface of the board.

Any other ideas? Is it worth sending somewhere for repair?

Thanks again for the help!

[Larry]

Thanks Larry.

So I tried as you suggested. There were three ribbon cables that were basically taped to the board, then held down with a small metal bar screwed to the main board. I removed them, wiped them down, and a bit oxidation came off, they looked OK and I put them back in place with new tape and re-attached the hold down bars. Powered up but the problem still persists.

Is it possible it is the other side of the cables where they come off the playing surface? If so, that looks a lot trickier to deal with as access seems only to be from under the glued-on surface of the board.

Any other ideas? Is it worth sending somewhere for repair?

Thanks again for the help!

Not worth sending away somewhere for help, IMO. It's unfortunate,
but with chess comps around that value the cost of repairs plus return
shipping outweighs the cost of a replacement machine on ebay. Of course
you must wait for one to come up for auction. As you say, the problem is
likely under the playing surface, in which case it is not looking good. You
said you tried the hair dryer trick with no luck.
I have had a machine with much the same problem spring back to life
by melting 'all' the soldered joints on the mainboard. It looks like it will
take ages, but in fact only took about a half hour. It's worth a try.
I once threw a game similar to yours in the trash out of frustration. It
had a couple of ranks refusing to work.
Anything electronic is not long for this world. With chess computers we
are basically playing "pass the parcel", until the machine breaks down
for someone who paid well for it, and now has a very expensive manual
chess board. The companies that made them are now defunct, and you
will be unlikely to find someone with a circuit diagram.
Sorry I can't suggest anything else...
Don't throw the machine out, it may work again for no apparent
reason. I have had reason to believe the reset button (acl)does not always
do the job of clearing static charges completely. This is because I have
reset a machine, had the problem persist, give up, put it into the
wardrobe, only to get it back out the next day and it's fine. I'm assuming
here that you have tried the reset button?
hope it works again for you sometime...
Larry
PS Another thought...in the mainboard there are often chips that are
not soldered in, just a push fit into a cradle. Gently lever them up at
each end and then reseat them by pushing on them with your thumbs.
Then cross your fingers and your toes and try powering up again.