Star Diamond problem

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Reinfeld
Member
Posts: 486
Joined: Thu Feb 17, 2011 3:54 am
Location: Tacoma, WA

Star Diamond problem

Post by Reinfeld »

I pulled mine out last night, having ignored it for a few months. I've had no issues with performance until now - it's always worked like a charm.

Last night however, the response was alarming. First, with batteries only, I got a half-formed display with two LEDs lit (pointing to square a4). Turned it off, and got the sound indicating it was on. But no display on LCD.

Removed batteries. Added a fresh set. No response. Turned board over. Got a brief beep, then nothing. Removed new batteries. Tried pressing tiny reset/ACL button. Reinstalled batteries. Nothing.

Removed batteries. Plugged in the adapter. LCD display comes on, showing all characters at once. But no response from LED or board squares when applying pressure. No response to new game button or GO button.

Disconnected adapter. Pressed reset button again. Tried batteries and adapter again. No response.

Any help here?

- R.
"You have, let us say, a promising politician, a rising artist that you wish to destroy. Dagger or bomb are archaic and unreliable - but teach him, inoculate him with chess."
– H.G. Wells
Larry
Senior Member
Posts: 2272
Joined: Wed Aug 01, 2007 8:42 am
Location: Gosford, NSW Australia

Post by Larry »

Sorry to hear about the problem. Strange, because Novags are notoriously
reliable. Some retailers loved selling them for that reason.
I don't suppose you have forgotten and put a positive tip adaptor on the
machine, have you? The Star Diamond is strictly negative tip 9volts DC.
Not meaning to insult you, but make doubly sure the batteries are in the
right way around, and that they are good. I've had experience with batteries
that are straight off the shop shelf and are near kaput, so make sure that's
not the case with yours.
I just had a look at the back of my SD and noticed you can't clean the
battery terminals without taking the back off. It does look like the back will
have to come off, so you can try a couple of things. When any chess comp
gives trouble after sitting unused for months on end, it can be that oxidation
in the push fit joints is the culprit. So, once the back is off you can pull out
and replace any chip that is push fit. You also pull out, clean, and replace
the flexible plastic ribbon leads that connect the mainboard with the playing
surface. This is fairly elementary stuff that anyone can do. Just take it slowly.
For this job I use a soft brush from my electronics store that is made
especially for this job. The conductive surface on the ribbon leads is quite
thin and easily rubbed off if you use something too harsh, eg a tooth brush.
Gently, gently does it.

Hardened, long term chess comp collectors are well aware of these sorts
of problems. Others might have more useful advice for you. Hope you get
it going again...
L
Reinfeld
Member
Posts: 486
Joined: Thu Feb 17, 2011 3:54 am
Location: Tacoma, WA

Post by Reinfeld »

Hi Larry,

Thank you very much. I tried some of your suggestions re batteries and adapter, but I might have to go buy the brush you describe. I haven't removed the back yet. I'm not - not - good on small repairs of this nature, so I have to be careful.

I did notice some new behavior after I tried my favorite technique: leaving the machine alone for a day. This time, it fired up and I was able to play a full game - relief! But the LCD was entirely blank. We'll see what happens next.

- R.
"You have, let us say, a promising politician, a rising artist that you wish to destroy. Dagger or bomb are archaic and unreliable - but teach him, inoculate him with chess."
– H.G. Wells
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