Munchen Board Problem
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Munchen Board Problem
I recently purchased a Mephisto Munchen board in excellent condition.
I plugged in a module (32bit Lyon), display and adapter module and was surprised when I made the first move and the board did not recognize the move. The LEDs lit up on the From and To squares, but the display did not show that a move had been made and the module did not make a move in response to my first move.
I tried moving the modules around and resetting the modules. I tried different modules and power supplies. Same results.
If I press the three buttons: Clear, right arrow, Enter (causing the module to make the first move) the red LEDs for a pawn move light up and the move is listed in the display. When I move the pawn the computer recognizes the move. But when I move a black pawn in response, the board lights the LEDs on the From and To squares but the module does not recognize that a move has been made. I can play through an entire game using this button press sequence for every move (white & black) and the computer playing against itself. A couple of times, after ~30 moves, the board will recognize a move I make without the three key sequence. Once it recognized about 10 moves before returning to the problem and once I was able to finish a game in the normal fashion. Upon pressing the new game button the same problem returned.
The board seems to see the moves per the LEDs turning on, but that information doesn't seem to be getting to the module.
Any ideas? I'm stumped (and disappointed).
Dave
I plugged in a module (32bit Lyon), display and adapter module and was surprised when I made the first move and the board did not recognize the move. The LEDs lit up on the From and To squares, but the display did not show that a move had been made and the module did not make a move in response to my first move.
I tried moving the modules around and resetting the modules. I tried different modules and power supplies. Same results.
If I press the three buttons: Clear, right arrow, Enter (causing the module to make the first move) the red LEDs for a pawn move light up and the move is listed in the display. When I move the pawn the computer recognizes the move. But when I move a black pawn in response, the board lights the LEDs on the From and To squares but the module does not recognize that a move has been made. I can play through an entire game using this button press sequence for every move (white & black) and the computer playing against itself. A couple of times, after ~30 moves, the board will recognize a move I make without the three key sequence. Once it recognized about 10 moves before returning to the problem and once I was able to finish a game in the normal fashion. Upon pressing the new game button the same problem returned.
The board seems to see the moves per the LEDs turning on, but that information doesn't seem to be getting to the module.
Any ideas? I'm stumped (and disappointed).
Dave
- Steve B
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Re: Munchen Board Problem
Actually the adaptor module is used for the older Exclusive and Munchen boards that can only take 8 bit modulesDave C wrote:I recently purchased a Mephisto Munchen board in excellent condition.
so Not all Munchen boards will need the Adapter module to play 16/32 bit modules,generally these boards are designated with an "S" in the upper right corner
but not always
i dont know if this is the issue but try removing the Adaptor module and inserting the power supply directly into the board
Munchen "S" Regards
Steve
Last edited by Steve B on Sat Oct 17, 2015 11:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
Thank you very much for sharing your ideas and suggestions. Pls keep them coming.
I've installed the same modules in another board and they work fine. I can hear the reed switches clicking when I move chessmen. And, I have tried not using the adapter module and powering directly into the board. No change.
I've tried different chessmen (maybe stronger magnets??) no change. I believe the board is sensing the moves made on the board but that information is not getting to the modules. Moves made by the module are getting to the board.
Argh! regards,
Dave
I've installed the same modules in another board and they work fine. I can hear the reed switches clicking when I move chessmen. And, I have tried not using the adapter module and powering directly into the board. No change.
I've tried different chessmen (maybe stronger magnets??) no change. I believe the board is sensing the moves made on the board but that information is not getting to the modules. Moves made by the module are getting to the board.
Argh! regards,
Dave
- blaubaer
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Hi Dave,
Regards, Michael
ok, so the problem is the München Board!Dave C wrote: I've installed the same modules in another board and they work fine.
ok, next step would be to attach a multimeter to the reeds and test them, but I suppose they work fine...Dave C wrote: I can hear the reed switches clicking when I move chessmen.
If the adapter is the problem, the modules would not work...Dave C wrote: And, I have tried not using the adapter module and powering directly into the board. No change.
I expect, it's a problem with the bus pcb inside the München Board. If the board itself looks good the replacement of ICs could help. Take the ICs from another Modular or Exclusive Board and try it...Dave C wrote:
I've tried different chessmen (maybe stronger magnets??) no change. I believe the board is sensing the moves made on the board but that information is not getting to the modules. Moves made by the module are getting to the board.
Regards, Michael
- Steve B
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you say you tested different modules in this boardDave C wrote: I believe the board is sensing the moves made on the board but that information is not getting to the modules. Moves made by the module are getting to the board.
Argh! regards,
Dave
were any of them an 8 bit program?
if not...
remove the adaptor module and insert an 8 bit module with its display module
if a working 8 bit module ..works in this board.. then the board is an older board..as i described in my first reply..
also...
just to be certain...test a different 16/32 program module and a different 16/32 bit display module in this board
notice i said "display" module..
i once had a defective display module which caused the board to lock up
test it with the adapter module and test it without the adapter module
in summary...make 3 tests
1)test an 8 bit program module and its display module
2) a different 16/32 bit program module and a different 16/32 bit display module with adapter module in
3)a different 16/32 bit program module and a different 16/32 bit display module with adapter module out
Inconclusive Testing Regards
Steve
Thank you for the testing suggestions.Steve B wrote: in summary...make 3 tests
1)test an 8 bit program module and its display module
2) a different 16/32 bit program module and a different 16/32 bit display module with adapter module in
3)a different 16/32 bit program module and a different 16/32 bit display module with adapter module out
Inconclusive Testing Regards
Steve
I tested the problem board with a MM IV with it's display module and had the same results. I also tested the board with a Dallas 16 bit module with it's 16/32 bit display and adapter module and without the adapter module. Same results. I played a game by having it play against itself and half way through it would accepts moves I made in the normal fashion. When it warms up it seems to work correctly. But when I started a new game....it did not work again. Still puzzled...
_____________
I have an extra modular board, but unfortunately I'm not familiar with replacing the ICs. Is it just a matter of soldering?Michael wrote:I expect, it's a problem with the bus pcb inside the München Board. If the board itself looks good the replacement of ICs could help. Take the ICs from another Modular or Exclusive Board and try it...
Many thanks,
Dave
- blaubaer
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Hi Dave,
It would be better to disassemble the whole pcb from a good board and mount it into the München board. That's not so difficult...
Better to have a broken Modular Board than no München Board...
Regards, Michael
that was a careless comment from my side; I thought the ICs have sockets, but that's not the case - desoldering is very complicate, time consuming and you'll need a special solder tip.Dave C wrote:I have an extra modular board, but unfortunately I'm not familiar with replacing the ICs. Is it just a matter of soldering?Michael wrote:I expect, it's a problem with the bus pcb inside the München Board. If the board itself looks good the replacement of ICs could help. Take the ICs from another Modular or Exclusive Board and try it...
It would be better to disassemble the whole pcb from a good board and mount it into the München board. That's not so difficult...
Better to have a broken Modular Board than no München Board...
Regards, Michael
- spacious_mind
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I am not a techie, so I can't really add to any advice already provided. Currently I am playing tests with Revelation on an Exclusive Board. I had not used the board for about a year. When I first turned it on, I had trouble with it as well. Couldn't hear the square clicks on squares, lights would not react on some squares etc. Revelation module would not set itself for a game.Dave C wrote:
Thank you for the testing suggestions.
I tested the problem board with a MM IV with it's display module and had the same results. I also tested the board with a Dallas 16 bit module with it's 16/32 bit display and adapter module and without the adapter module. Same results. I played a game by having it play against itself and half way through it would accepts moves I made in the normal fashion. When it warms up it seems to work correctly. But when I started a new game....it did not work again. Still puzzled...
By repeatedly lifting the pieces on squares and by making sure the pieces were dead center on their start positions, it eventually started to work again. After playing a game and restarting another game, it continued to have the same problem on start-up but by repeatedly making sure the pieces were properly centered it worked. Now after playing a couple of weeks with this board, it works fine again.
I think these old boards need to be played often to keep them from freezing up. You could try keeping the power running on it for a couple of hours and go back to it every so often lifting pieces and placing them back down on squares. The King has the best magnet so I use it when I try to reenergize a square.
One of my other Mephisto boards has a problem on h1 square. It has never lit up in about 10 years, but does acknowledge in the module when a piece that's on it, is played. Therefore I have been playing this board with different modules for many years without a problem.
Best regards
Nick
Munchen board problem
After years of neglect I've recently plugged in my Mephisto Munchen London and there are a number of reed switches that aren't responding. I believe it's possible to replace these switches. So I'd appreciate any advice on how to go about it. Meanwhile I'll try Nick's advice and try to activate these switches.
Cheers,
Rob
Cheers,
Rob
Always pays to read the manual.
Munchen Board Problem
I have managed to reactivate 4 reed switches by using Nick's idea but two still remain unreactive. All the LEDs work. So just 2 switches from a fully functioning Muchen Board.
Always pays to read the manual.
- blaubaer
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Hi Irrawang,
put a strong magnet on the field and try to toggle the reed contacts. If this doesn't help, you've to change (desolder and solder) the reed contacts. The contacts need movement every year, otherwise corrosion is coming up and prevents the contacts from conducting the current. Only switching on the cc doesn't help...
Regards,
Michael
put a strong magnet on the field and try to toggle the reed contacts. If this doesn't help, you've to change (desolder and solder) the reed contacts. The contacts need movement every year, otherwise corrosion is coming up and prevents the contacts from conducting the current. Only switching on the cc doesn't help...
Regards,
Michael
Munchen Board Problem
Hi Michael, thanks for your suggestions. I have tried the strong magnet pieces from the Excalibur Grandmaster without success so far. I'll try to source an even stronger magnet. I assume the polarity of the magnet doesn't matter. As 62 of the 64 switches work I have high hopes that I won't need a soldering iron.
Cheers,
Robert.
Cheers,
Robert.
Always pays to read the manual.