Fidelity Chess Challenger Sensory Champion problem

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scandien
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Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2011 1:15 pm
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Fidelity Chess Challenger Sensory Champion problem

Post by scandien »

Hello

i just get my new chess challenger sensory champion, but if i can play a game entirely at level 1 , i cannot nor change the level, reverse the board , take back a move ? etc...
The six buttons on top of the machine seems useless ( OP, LEV REV ST TM or Sound.. ).

Do anyone have an idea to solve this issue ?

best Regards

Nicolas
Larry
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Joined: Wed Aug 01, 2007 8:42 am
Location: Gosford, NSW Australia

Re: Fidelity Chess Challenger Sensory Champion problem

Post by Larry »

scandien wrote:Hello

i just get my new chess challenger sensory champion, but if i can play a game entirely at level 1 , i cannot nor change the level, reverse the board , take back a move ? etc...
The six buttons on top of the machine seems useless ( OP, LEV REV ST TM or Sound.. ).

Do anyone have an idea to solve this issue ?

best Regards

Nicolas
Hi Nicolas, the problem with the six buttons seems like the standard
'oxidised switch surface' problem. A layer of oxide has formed which
acts as an insulator. You have to take the back off the machine, and
from there you will find your way. When you expose the surface to
be cleaned you just rub them gently with fine sandpaper, put it back
together and all will be fine for many a long year.
hope this helps..
L
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scandien
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Post by scandien »

Thanks 😊 i will try
Best regards
Nicolas
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Tibono2
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I repaired my CSC with a wafer (a chocolate one)!!

Post by Tibono2 »

Hello,

Sorry to dig out an old thread, but I think it was definitely relevant to do so.
Because I received today a nice Fidelity Champion Sensory Chess Challenger, complete with user manual, original mains adapter, nice wooden pieces, in its Rexton suitcase (Rexton was the French importer).

It works, speaks French, but I faced the very same problem as Scandien did: the top keyboard on the right side of the bezel did not react; none of the six keys. Whatever pressure I could put on it.

Well, would you guess what I did? I repaired it with a wafer :D !

Accessing the keyboard is a bit tricky, but not so much. You first need to remove the five rubber pads, so you can carefully push plastic holders to get rid of the wooden frame (be aware 40 years old plastic easily breaks).

Then gently remove the four round metal clips holding the small PCB back of the keyboard, and the two ones holding the LED display being linked to the same PCB.

You now need to release the two stacked large green PCBs from their plastic clips, to gain enough room to handle the failing keyboard. Most plastic holders are obvious to spot, the last one holding the center of the PCB which is closest to the playing surface is the roughly central plastic cylindrical tube, with two opposed clips at its base, you need to gently push back.

Image

At this stage I could test the PCB back of the keyboad, using a screwdriver to enable contact between PCB tracks, instead of using the keys, and at the very same place the keys should have establish contact once pushed: it worked. So, no need to rub the PCB, the failing part was actually the hereafter rubber keyboard:

Image

Back of the keyboard, round pegs that time ago were coated with some conductive substance, now gone after too much use. Same often happen with TV remove controls...
Well, I glued small rounds of solid aluminium stamped out of a wafer wrapping paper:
1st one, on the LV key, I temporarily set the keyboard back in place for a short test, it worked... I could change the level!

Image

Here is the wafer and the wrapping paper (check the holes I made with a punch tool for leather):

Image
Image

Now the completed repair:
Image

A last check keyboard in place before clipping back the PCBs (beware the LEDs), setting back the metal clips for the display and keyboard, then settling back the computer into its wooden frame; after few successful tests I glued the pads back in place...

Now I can eat the wafer!!
Cheers,
Tibono
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